December 9, 2017
The morning
was crisp at a temperature of 49 F (9 C) clear sky and little wind. We walked
to the San Antonio bus station before breakfast to buy our tickets to
Valparaiso for later this morning and then returning next Thursday. We were gone less than 45 minutes. There was
a bit of miscommunication for the return ticket since the agent originally gave
us a return ticket for today, but it was corrected easily. As we walked back to
the hotel we could see the marine layer cloud coming in toward the land. By breakfast the sky was cloudy, but started
to clear later as we walked to the catch our bus.
Breakfast was served in a room of about seven
tables set for two, with a great view of the harbor and the marine layer of cloud
hovering just outside of the harbor entrance. After breakfast, we followed Jan and
Doug down the hill to the bus station. We stopped at the Totttus supermarket
for a 1.6 liter bottle of water. We are taking the same bus to Valparaiso at
10:55. The bus trip took about 95 minutes.
The scenery
was woodland on hills and in valleys, at first interspersed with some fields. As
we accessed the highway outside and above San Antonio, we looked to the coast
and could see the marine layer cloud, but not the ocean. From the highway, you could see the foothills
of the coastal mountain range. As the bus turned from the highway to go into
the town of Laguinillas, the large roundabout center had a circle decorated
with three wine barrel piles. The next town was Casablanca, where the bus made
at least six stops to pick-up people. Around
Casablanca, vineyards could be seen on either side of the highway. Some of the
grape vines looked young.
Back on the highway, we passed a church which
may have been the site to where pilgrimages travelled on Friday, judging from the
sudden appearance of litter scattered for several miles. Traffic was slow once we arrived on the
outskirts of Valparaiso, but the bus station was within 10 minutes of the city limits.
We said good-bye to Doug and Jan and found the information kiosk to get advice
on how to get to Waddington Loft, where we are staying. We had picked it three
months ago, before the cruise ships changed their port to San Antonio. It was a
little over one kilometer from the passenger terminal, however it was more than
six kilometers from the bus station on the other side of Valparaiso. We were told where to find the bus stop for
bus #510 and to others that would drop us off within 100 meters of Waddington
Loft. The stop was less than five
minutes away and we had a short wait to catch the bus. Twenty-five minutes
later we were at our destination. The cost was 400 pesos each (80 cents
Canadian).
The Waddington
Loft is situated on a busy street near the intersection of Great Britain Avenue
and Errázuriz Street in the Playa Ancha neighbourhood. It is a large house that has been converted
into four compact apartments. It was built in 1909 and declared a historic
conservation building in 2004. The renovation did not replace the 100 year old
single pane windows or sound proof the walls and floors between units. You can
even hear bare feet on the floor above, let alone the leather soled shoes. We
have earplugs. You can hear the conversations of people walking past the living
room window. Luckily the bedroom is in the back.
After unpacking
we explored the area and walked to the top end of the Artilleria funicular
cable car 175-meter route, which is across the street from the Naval Museum. This
1893 built funicular is one of 22 funiculars in Valparaiso. It originally
carried staff from the naval school up to the building now the museum. We had great view of the harbor from the route
we walked and at the viewpoint by the museum.
There were many Chilean Navy vessels moored in the harbor. We found a stairway (escaleras) leading
down to the Plaza Aquana, a street away from the cargo port and close to the
cruise ship passenger terminal. Descending the stairway, we had a view of the
avenue Errázuriz which runs along the port
fences. We heard honking and a procession
of 30 or 40 buses and cars with green and white flags was going somewhere.
We walked around the area and found Plaza Sotomayor,
where a walking tour leaves from several times each day. There is a monument to the wars that Chile
fought in the late 19th century. One side commemorates the Battle at
Arica at El Morro in the town of Arica that we visited early in the week. We
walked over to the pier where there were stalls and souvenir stands and found a
larger Information center and got better maps and advice on how to get to Viña
del Mar by bus. We felt very safe walking around. We found a bar and ordered a
Pisco Sour and a Chilean beer, Cristal. We had walked 12,791 steps (about 5.5
miles). Then we walked back to the stairway by the funicular and back to the
apartment, but did not find a supermarket just several convenience stores. We stopped at one and bought a few items for
tomorrow’s breakfast. The temperature
was about 67, but felt warmer in the sun.
The sky was mainly sunny.
After we put
away our purchases we looked at the tourist information and compiled our list
of comments for the Celebrity Infinity cruise survey that was emailed the day
we left the ship.
For dinner, we
walked a block away to a tiny pizza restaurant and ordered individual
pizzas. When they arrived, they were 10-inch
pizzas! One was chorizo sausage, tomato and cheese while the other was chicken,
mushroom, corn, green pepper and lettuce.
We each took half back to the apartment and we have tomorrow’s dinner in
the fridge. The beer to go with the pizza
was another Chilean one called Royal Guard Black Label.
We returned to
the apartment and read and worked on the blog.
Total steps today 16,713.
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