December 8, 2017
Today is a National holiday in Chile - Immaculate
Conception Day. The ship arrived at the port of San Antonio, Chile, ending the first
cruise. About three days ago, people who
had begged for transportation to Valparaiso (due to non-refundable hotel
payments for two or three day stays in Valparaiso booked months ago) were
advised that Celebrity had arranged for a bus to go from the ship to
Valparaiso. As part of the highway
around and into Valparaiso is closed, they must be using a lot of back roads
and we heard the trip will be over four hours instead of the usual under two
hour journey. Since we had altered our
reservations before boarding the ship, we are staying in San Antonio overnight
and plan to take a bus tomorrow. We
already have found the bus station, just a ten-minute walk from the hotel.
This morning was cloudy and just 53 F with
a slight wind. A high temperature of 68 F was predicted. By mid-afternoon, the clouds allowed some sunshine
to get through and it felt like the temperature was in the low 70s.
Most passengers had left the ship by 10
this morning, about 200 were remaining for another 15 days to travel continuing
around Cape Horn to Buenos Aires.
All passengers needed to board a shuttle
bus to take us from the ship to the terminal building, since the port is a
working port, one of the busiest in Chile. Passengers cannot be wandering
around. The ride took about 100 seconds. We handed in the Chile Agriculture
Immigration forms, that the ship had provided two nights ago, as we were
directed to the area where we could collect our luggage. Then it was off for our San Antonio
adventure. Outside the terminal there
were buses to take passengers to Santiago for flights or hotels or to Valparaiso
as well as taxis to go to Santiago or hotels in San Antonio. Doug and Jan were also staying at Hotel
Puerto Mayor, but had a later time to get off the ship and were planning to
take a taxi with their four pieces of luggage and backpacks. It was about 1.5
kilometers away and on a road about 200 meters above the port area. We just had one suitcase each and took about
20 minutes to walk the sloped street up to the hotel. Hotel Puerto Mayor is a
collection of little duplex cabins with a great view of the harbor and the
ship. The hotel has Wi-Fi and includes breakfast. The bus terminal is a 10-minute walk away
without luggage so a little more pulling luggage. From when we left the ship to when we stepped
into our little cabin, just an hour had passed, and Jan and Doug had arrived
just before us.
In the March 1985 earthquake that struck the
capital, Santiago (which is about 110 km away) and the region, a large part of
San Antonio was destroyed and the port shut down. Again, in late February 2010,
the port shut down for a few days after another earthquake. Small earthquakes happen at least weekly in
this area. The most recent earthquake
was three days ago registering 4.5 on the Richter scale – minor.
We dropped the luggage and set out to
explore San Antonio. We met a couple
from California, in the parking lot, who were taking the Celebrity Infinity
ship today. We saw Jan and Doug at their
cabin just as we started our walk down to the road.
There was a nice sidewalk with viewpoints as
the road peaked and went down to the town center. There was a large casino at the intersection.
We found a bank ATM to get some Chilean pesos and then wandered around the city
center through a market of fruit and vegetable stalls. Many retail stores were
open. There were baskets of fresh artichoke, tomatoes, onions, cabbage,
oranges, apples, cucumber and more. We saw several pairs of local unarmed
police walking in different areas, quietly watching the crowds. As we got close
to the harbor and the fishing bay, a fish market lined the road and people were
buying fresh fish and watching them being filleted. We were right by the marina
that was full of small fishing boats.
Next, we walked along the Bellamar Promenade, passing the Puertocito
Pier and an old Crane #82 that was a reminder of the old port cranes.
We stopped along the promenade to watch the
Compañia Folklórica May group of Chilean folk dancers and singers perform. Their show lasted 45 minutes. Then we walked back toward the port, passing
the gates and continued past the supermarket, Tottus, to the bus station. As we
passed the port gate a voice behind us asked if we needed help and it was the
young woman, at the information tent by the ship, who had given us a map and showed
us to way to our hotel. She had finished
her shift. We told her we had found the hotel easily. The bus company that we
want to use tomorrow had its ticket office closed which we expected as they
only do the Valparaiso – San Antonio route and it was not running today. We returned to the Tottus store and wandered
around looking at the groceries, meat counter, produce department, bakery and
diary. It was after 1 pm and we bought a
package of warm ¼ chicken and fries to share and a bottle of juice then went
back to the hotel to eat the lunch. We
were greeted by the hotel receptionist who informed us that we had paid for a
better room than she had given us and would we like to switch, so we did and
had a great view of the ship and harbor.
Steps 13,423
After lunch, we connected with the Wi-Fi and
caught up on emails then joined Jan and Doug on the hotel patio and watched the
activity in the harbor. You could hear
the buzzing of the ship’s public-address announcements, but not the words. We heard the lifeboat drill around 4:30 and expected
the ship to leave within an hour, but only 4 ½ hours later did the ship careful
back out of its berth and head south to Cape Horn.
We arranged to meet Jan and Doug for dinner
at the restaurant above the hotel at 7 pm and had a clear view of the harbor and
the ship and speculated on why it had not left yet. Two of us ordered chicken with either risotto
or potato balls and the other two ordered white pippin fish with rice or
vegetables. We had either Kustman beer or a Pisco Sour. The bill was less than $50. At 8:45 the ship was still docked and it was
another 30 minutes before it slowly began leaving port under the watchful eyes
of two tugboats. It was a tight channel
between a car carrier and a container ship.
Next Friday the four of us will be on the Holland America Zaandam travelling
south to Antarctica.
No entertainment tonight, just reading and catching
up the Canadian curling Olympic Trials.
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