December 2, 2017
This morning was overcast and 66 F with
a bit of wind, quite pleasant for our hour walk around Decks 11 and 12. The 210
steps around the pool needs six circuits to equal one km. Our two-level walk is
720 steps per lap. Steps 9271
It
is the second day in Lima. We could see
that different ships were in the berths beside us, two container ships. The parking lot on the huge pier across from
our ship, which was empty yesterday, was full of Kia vehicles, mainly white
cars, vans and pickup trucks thanks to the vehicle container ship that was
berthed beside us yesterday. Several
piers away we could see the top of the Oceania Sirena, which is on a 34-night
voyage from Buenos Aires to San Diego. It is the former Princess Cruise Lines
Ocean Princess and has a capacity for about 800 passengers and 365 crew.
The port was busy unloading the container ships
near our ship and unloading a grain ship with a clam like devices operated on a
crane depositing the grain into a huge hoppers that fed the grain trucks. The grain
elevator was near our ship. There was a constant stream of trucks for the grain
and flat-bed trucks for the containers.
Later, when we left the port, there was four lanes of flat-bed trucks,
each lane was close to one kilometer long, waiting to clear port security.
The kiosks from yesterday were still there
and at 9 a.m. there were several dozen passengers browsing. Our tour did not
start until 11:45 so we were able to select from yesterday’s 108 photos the
ones to post to the blog before meeting the tour bus by the dock.
Our guide today was Percy. He explained
that there was a pre-Incan culture in the Lima area from 200 BC to about 700 AD.
Callao is the largest seaport in South America and the International airport is
about a 15-minute drive from the port and is also located in Callao. As we
exited the port there was a park for the port with a statue. The national dance
of Peru is Salsa. The country is the third largest in South America and is a bit
larger than the state of Texas, twice the size of Spain, four times larger than
Germany and ten times larger than Great Britain.
It takes 22
hours of driving to get from oceanside Lima to Cusco in the Andes Mountains. Cusco is the access point for Machu Picchu. The population of Peru is about 32 million
and at least ten million live within the Lima capital region. There is no
subway in Lima, but in the next few years they hope to build an above ground
system like Tokyo (or Vancouver). Most People
in Lima are mixed race – Spanish and native indigenous, but some in the Pisco
area are descendants of African slaves. The
ancient Peruvian culture of the Carals is one of the cradles of civilization. The
others being ancient China, ancient Egypt, ancient Mesopotamia and ancient
India. The ancient Carals were the oldest culture in the Americas and go back
more than 5,000 years. They lived in the mountains 320 kilometers north of Lima,
in the Supe Valley. The lost
civilization was not known until 1905 when a German archeologist discovered it and
it was not known until the 1970s that the hills were actually flat-topped
pyramids which revealed the extent of the culture.
Mining
is the number one industry in Peru. After silver and gold, Peru also mines
copper, mercury and zinc. About 70% of all the silver and gold in Europe today
came from the mines in Bolivia and Peru over the past 500 years. At one time
the area covering Peru and Bolivia was one country, but the Spanish split the
region in two in order to govern it better.
At the time Bolivia had access to the see, but in the mid 1800s Peru and
Bolivia decided to attack Chile and lost and Chile took the Bolivian land along
its coast as a war prize. Fishing is the
number two industry. There are many
kinds of cold water fish that Peru exports.
As we
entered Lima proper from Callao, on one the hotels or apartment buildings there
has a feature vertical wall of live plants covering a section. Near Plaza San Miguel there is a golden statue
in the center of a small park. We were
on our way to the Miraflores wealthy neighbourhood of Lima. Miraflores means watch flowers in Spanish. We
drove along the beach road with the purple flowered cliffs looming over the
road. We then zigzagged up the roadway to the cliff top suburb of Miraflores. The wealthy area has homes quite different
that north America with flat roofs due to the dry conditions of its desert
climate. The houses are built with their
walls touching their neighbours and are only two storeys high. There are many new rental and condominium apartments.
The main floors are usually retail shops.
Our destination was Huaca (holy place)
Pucillana (rituals or ceremonies). It looked like a hill until excavation
revealed that it was a flat-topped pyramid and city complex started in 200 AD
and took 500 years to complete. The pyramid
or Huaca Pucillana was a religious structure and once every 20 or 25 years it
was used for the ceremonial sacrifice to the mother god of the sea of a female member
of a high-ranking family to appease the gods when an El Niño occurred, less
frequently than today. The construction
was made adobe style with the bricks made from sand, clay and water. The bricks
were covered with plaster which was painted a pale yellow and then symbols and
figures of people and animals were designed on the paint. There was a faded original section on a
protected wall. The base is solid with no underground chambers. In an early
engineering concept, the bricks were arranged bookshelf style with no mortar
between the brick “books”, only below and above them. This technique was an early and successful
anti-earthquake building method. It has
seven platforms some of which are burial grounds. From the flat top of the
pyramid, the priests were able to view the ocean and perform the ritual
ceremonies. It was accidentally found that there are whole families buried in
tombs in the walls (Tomba Wari). A mummified family was excavated from the tomb
discovery and the remains are in a museum and a facsimile is shown in the
actual wall opening. The whole complex
also included homes and the administration of the region. The Ychama people,
conquered by and integrated with the Inca, were the last people to live here
from 1000 to 1470 AD. The group climbed
almost to the top then walked back down to a vignette of a typical family in
the clothes of the time which were made of cotton. They were a short and stocky race and had an
average life span of 40 years. They used cacao leaves in their daily cooking
and to chew during the day. The original
recipe for Coca-Cola used the cacao plant.
As we walked to the exit of the site we were each given a tiny Peruvian
flag, without the coat of arms in the enter, and all posed for a photo, our
guide said it was to send back to Celebrity Cruises. On our tour yesterday, when we were at the San
Marcos Cultural Center, the group also had a photo taken holding small Peruvian
flags.
After the exploration of the site, our group
of 30 was escorted to the adjoining restaurant, one of the best in Peru, called
Huaca Pucillana Restaurant. We sat at a
long white table cloth covered table with one side of the room open to the view
of the archeological site. It was formerly set with water and wine glasses. The
waiters served egg-bread buns and crusty rolls and the highlight to the group –
Pisco Sour cocktails. The recipe is 1 oz Lemon or Lime Juice, 1 1/2 oz Pisco
brandy, and 3/4 oz Simple Syrup stirred together and topped with 1 Egg
white & two drops of Angostura bitters. It is delicious. A cocktail that
we will be enjoying while in Peru and Chile.
We enjoyed it the last time we were in Chile in 2012.
The entrée was a chicken stew cooked in a
light mild yellow chili pepper sauce served with rice. The dessert was a scrumptious rice pudding
served in a martini glass and garnished with cinnamon. We sat across from a couple from Tennessee
and beside a woman from Edmonton.
The ride back to the ship was about 40
minutes. The clouds had come back and
the temperature was about 73 F. The kiosks
were still by the ship and doing a brisk business. It was after 4 when we
returned and had time to sip wine and choose photos for the blog. Not as many pictures were taken since we just
took one camera.
We sat with our usual group for dinner. The appetizers chosen were Smoked Ham and
Split Pea soup, or French Onion soup, followed by Moroccan Spiced Lamb Kebob
served on couscous with raisins and craisins or Sea Bass served with potato
wedges. Dessert was Café Pot de Crème, a tasty coffee custard.
The Celebrity Theatre show was pianist,
Antonio Salci. He shared the stage with
house orchestra members who did solos on several of his tunes. After the show, we went to the information
meeting about Pisco and found that it is a 40 minute shuttle ride into the town
from the port.
Final steps
for the day 12,494
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